"Not yet, wait, two of them " said my guide. I was breathing hard. It reverberated in my ears as it does when breathing underwater with a snorkel. I could hear my heart pounding and felt a twitch in my temple as we stood perfectly motionless watching a couple of nice permit foraging their way down the shallow coral flat towards us. My guide Earl Godfrey was standing close beside with the crab fly in his hand, there was no way he was going to let me cast and jump the gun. This was our first day fishing together. As a matter of fact we had only left the beach community of Placencia 50 minutes earlier and this was first stop. Additionally this was my first attempt to target permit and was as virginal as they come for this type of fishing. What a ripper day it was, no wind, glassy, bright and clear. It was the absolute silent stillness on the flats that overwhelmed me. Without even a lapping ripple the sickle fins made noises which seemed to telegraph their very mood straight to my brain. A puddling noise at one stage reflected the excitement one fish had at finding something.Kkkkkaaappppllloooouuuussshhhh! An explosion of the waters behind my right shoulder announced that another pelagic predator had just attacked breakfast. The permit did not flinch but my mind had a inter departmental argument with itself at that moment and overruled a instinctive reflex twist of the head to see what happened. A twinge of pain ran from neck down the my left arm, sweat rolled down my right arm. I remained fixed on my targets ready to cast on my masters command. Somehow though my thoughts where running off on different tangents. "Funny" I thought "the other side of neck reacted faster than the right"....."Whoa up Rando" said the conscious portion of my brain to the creative side "am I tripping out here like some kinda 60's acid flashback victim". Two weeks before I had slammed my brain into neutral and put the pedal down trying to absorb Belizean culture and flyfishing information like a sponge. Obviously I had reached sensory over load .Arriving in Belize was a relief for me and particularly for my wife Kate and others. I had various components of tackle laid out across our studio for weeks. The staff at Kaufmans I am sure where sick of me flicking through Randall's "Bonefishing" book, ogling O'Keefe's photos and picking at their fly displays. Guys from whom I was bleeding information suddenly had caller ID installed or email failures. Even the apartment manager rebelled and banned me from practice casting on the rooftop, much to mine and the local office workers disgust, who I am sure enjoyed the distraction.Now we were going to be Jim Scott's (of Journeys Ends Resorts) problem and after that Ali and Logan Gentry at El Pescador had to deal with us. We had come to here to catch fish and, hopefully, pen a story of our experience, NOT DIE I thought looking at the small inter island airplane that was to take us to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye from Belize City. All our transfers went smoothly but we where concerned about the wind which gusted menacingly as we made our way up the main water highway between the reef and caye on one of the island's water taxis. Worse, there were dark clouds on the horizon. Never-the-less as we passed El Pescador Lodge on our way to Journey's End, excitement and anticipation filled me, I couldn't wait to start my week. Journey's End Journeys End Resort is picturesque to say the least .We were shown to a wonderful cabana accommodation. "Excellent!" I thought as we were toured about the grounds. We studied the 'Barefoot Times" the resort information paper and while Kate was reading out loud I finished putting the last outfit together."The Driftwood Bar is open from 11am to when it closes" Kate said. I had enough " Righto lets see if we can see any of them Bones from the bar" I replied "have to try that Belikin stuff (the local beer) and find out about the fishing tomorrow from Jim anyway, you ready?' In short order, the next day's fishing was organized as were lunches. We enjoyed the soft island breeze and a few more Belikins before heading for a fine lobster dinner. The next morning as I opened the door the scene was set for much of our stay. Thunderstorm, lightning with heavy rain and a scrawny wet cat purring at my feet that Kate befriended the night before. . Ricardo.Ricardo walked up the jetty in the pouring rain. I watched from the bar as he had pulled up in the panga. A stocky fella with purpose in his stride he was introduced to me as he ducked in under the shelter. He smiled as he looked at the rain pouring down. I liked him already. The wind blew rain inside a little. "Lot of rain" he said."Nah just a dribble Ricardo" I said. I moved my pack up on the bar as water pooled at my feet, he grabbed my rods as a wind gust nearly threw them off the table. Kate came down from the breakfast bar "ready to go" she chirped at us. "Just waiting a bit for the rain to slow" I said looking at Ricardo. There was no wait in Ricardo... Within minutes we where running full throttle towards a kids play slide sitting adjacent to a small creek opening. This turned out to be the cut through to the western side of the Caye where most of the action takes place. A interesting experience in itself as you pass stilted shacks in the mangroves and of course slow down allowing the residents hand-powered barge to cross over. Once through the cut and in the shallow lagoon on the other side you know why you are here. Open expanses of water and in the distance small dark humps of cayes. But, we would not be on the Savannah Cay flats today. A prelude to most of our fishing time on Ambergris, the first of many waves of rain and wind squalls passed over us often driving us to protected lees in the mangroves.

The fishing areas for the guides working both from Journeys End and El Pescador cover a considerable distance. Deer Cay in the north, Long Key down south and the mainland in the west would be considered the extremes for a days fishing. This vast area contains some of the best flats for sight casting tarpon in Belize. Tarpon aside, other areas around the Cayes and on the flats have permit, bonefish, barracuda and sharks. The Savannah Flats are most famous for the Tarpon and the reason most fisherman come to Ambergris besides the quality of the lodges. These flats are fished from panga-like fishing boats customized by each guide. The good ones are set up nicely for flyfishing. There is little if any wading done in this fishery. Most fishing is done from the front of a boat that moves quite a bit. Now if you're a flyfishing newbie like me and think that the only way to get accustomed to these conditions is to actually experience them, you are right. Standing on casting decks in 2-3 foot chop and seeing fish in overcast to eclispe-like conditions is one thing but casting on the flats exposes you to any wind and this in turn effects your casting. Mr Lefty Kreh recently told me something that made it crystal clear he said if you can not cast 100ft in good conditions, you will not be able to get the 40ft needed on the flats in windy conditions. So practice your casting before you go. The days with Ricardo saw us fishing in 25knots of wind and overcast conditions. The call "need some sun" was all to familiar lament used by the guides during our stay on Ambergris. Without the sun chances of sighting fish is greatly reduced. This was reinforced when the sun did come out and "light up" the flats for a brief moment. Every shadow, grass patch, rockoutcrop and defined edge along the flats was immediately visible. Our options, unfortunately, were a bit thin as we hunted the rocky and cunjie covered flats surrounding the cayes which offered some protection. Here we encountered small tarpon, permit and barracuda and had our chances but were generally unsuccessful. Ricardo gave it his all, but even the best fishing guide has no control over the weather and we certainly appreciated his effort and humour. In overcast conditions short fast casts where required as 9 times out of ten the fish where already at your feet before you see them. Afternoons where spent chasing bonefish in the shallow back lagoon of Ambergris. Having never caught a "Bonyfish" as Ricardo called them I was quite taken back at the power of these small power rockets. The first school we came across contained over a hundred fish and they where stirring the mud wildly. A cast across the front edge of the school saw a couple follow the small Tan Mini Shrimp. Then a "thumper "of around a half a pound grabbed it. My first Bonefish gave a great account of himself...well he pulled hard for such a little fish. To be honest we had come for tarpon and bonefish really were not high on our list. However, after subsequent trips fishing for bones they are now a high priority particularly for the larger models!

After a few days at Journey's End it was time to move on to El Pescador, only a 2 minute transfer by boat. All the resorts generally have vessels for transfer and the water taxi system works well for getting around at other times. San Pedro is only just down the road if you have the energy for nightlife after hours on the water. Walking down the landing towards the Lodge my heart was skipping beats. This place has history and all the stories I had read and words of praise from anglers who had been before started to unfold before my eyes. Ali Gentry welcomed us and showed us to our room before we headed down to the bar area to talk about our stay. The day was perfect, not a breath of wind, sunny and our hopes where for that to continue. I am sure my grin was ear to ear the whole time but not more so when I entered our quarters to find rod racks on the wall.."Absolutely beautiful" I said to myself "a real fishing lodge....."

Thomas...Watching the pangas arriving at the dock while we had breakfast was exciting. We had no idea who would guide us and the men now walking around collecting lunches and loading tackle for the days events looked like fisherman not "guides" that wear all the fancy fishing wear and act like they are gods gift. These were fisherman, t-shirts, bare feet and leather hides. The night before, during dinner, current guests had received pins for that days captures. A couple of anglers had caught their first of species. One a permit the other a tarpon. My sleep had been restless in hopes my chance was coming for that elusive tarpon. Thomas made us feel welcome as we loaded our gear on the boat. He quietly answered my questions about what fly I should tie on and if he was satisfied with our setups. His friendly grin eased our worries and we motored through the creek cut and into the day. Thomas knew what we wanted to fish for. Some tarpon had been jumped on a channel near the mainland the day before and this is where we headed. As we slowed down approaching another panga at anchor Thomas wryly said "bait fishing, livebait". Not 2 seconds later and looking just like it's nickname, a Silver King leaped from the waters directly behind their boat. The angler set the hook in a grandiose display of conventional tackle use. The rod soon lost its U-shape and straightened as the tarpon broke free. We were in the right place now- we just needed a shot. Kate kindly gave me first hour. (This switch-every-hour system works great when fishing with other anglers by the way. Not such a great system when your wife's watch actually runs 80 minutes for her hour.)My legs were like rubber stepping up on casting deck. The sight of that Tarpon jumping was too much! It was certainly over a 100 pounds. As Thomas was explaining the system we were to use my heart was pounding, "and if I do not see it cast anyway" he said "the water is really green, bit hard to see here". I layered my line at my feet and started to hunt the water. Both sets of Polaroid glasses I had were blue/grey lenses contrary to advise I was given. I found these good for the conditions and akin to sighting fish around my home grounds in Australia. I would, and do, take an amber pair for other work on future trips. We poled along the edge for several minutes, my heart pounding my eyes scanning. "There's one!!!" I said as started a backcast. The fish was swimming directly away from us all I could see was his tail beating. I let the cast go and the orange fly landed beside his head. A lot more "arse then class" was involved with that cast but it was all going textbook. The tarpon turned and inhaled with a bucket sized slurp and headed straight back towards us. "Set it" said Thomas, I was trying, keeping the rod pointed towards the water and wanting to pull the hook home by furiously pulling in the line by hand not rod. I could not get enough line back to even feel the fish. It had doubled back effectively putting a 30 foot loop of slack in my line and the large tarpon now sat underneath the boat in full view shaking its head from side to side. The fly was unceremoniously spat out as I watched. In all of about10 seconds I threw out that bloody text book. No "how to" written about that situation. "That might have been your only chance" said Thomas. That afternoon the weather returned to the wet and windy pattern that hardens ones resolve. Taking it in stride we fished hard for the next few days but with no results.

Nesto...Nesto Jr. is ranked as the number 1 Tarpon guide at El Pescador. He is very quiet, and very focused on his job. That job is catching tarpon on fly and it is a very desperate situation which can make him to go "Bonyfishing". It was and we did catch bonefish. With the winds howling all the tarpon flats were turbid and unfishable. We staked out on a couple of days on the Cangrejo (crab) flats, waiting for Tarpon to pass by. Nesto knew where they would pass and unbelievably half a dozen single fish of average size passed by at our feet but would not open their mouths for a fly. This style of hunting is not for anyone suffering ADD. One session saw me standing at the ready for 5 hours. All fisherman understand that fishing can be "on" as easily as it can be "off". More opportunities presented themselves on the days we spent staked out on the flats vs. other methods but Nesto had one more idea. The last day was a grandiose effort by Nesto to put us on a large tarpon. We met at the dock at 3.30AM. Lightning, thunder and rain were refreshing but totally unappreciated. Kate once again reminded me how committed we all were, no complaints, just positive thoughts. "It will be nice sleeping in those chairs this morning Nesto" she said. Nesto's Panga, like all of the other guides, is custom fitted and reflects a bit of each guide's personality. Riding in Nesto's panga was indeed like sitting in an outboard powered lounge. The trip to Long Caye was exactly as it sounded, long. How Nesto and the other Belizean guides navigate is amazing, particularly at night. Sticks poked into the mud banks mark the safe channels. Finding these markers with $5 dollar Eveready flashlights in the darkness is certainly an artform, especially while screaming along at 25 mph . Word of advice, keep your arms and head inside the boat. We found the giants rolling on the outside of Long Caye very early that morning. Several large fish moved in a school.They seemed to enjoy the wind squalls and tropical downpour that we were only just enduring. I refused to give in but it was all really just a exercise casting in extreme conditions while watching fish at a distance. It was impossible for Nesto control the panga and to get us any nearer although he made a valiant effort.

Notes...Some notes for first timers at El Pescador, Journeys End or Ambergris Caye. The guides work 8 to 8 - 1/2 hours per day, generally 6AM to 2PM. This means that unless you are prepared to come to arrangements for a longer day you will be back early. There is some fishing in the lagoon at the rear of the resorts. Kayaks are available for the hardy. Mosquitos and an occasional crocodile will keep you on your toes. I was lucky enough to be told of a pond that was between two residences that held small tarpon. I spent most afternoons hooking and jumping small "poons" from a bridge that connected two properties. By befriending the caretaker I was told of a "grande crocodile" that lived in the tea colored water that took one his dogs- thus bridge casting was much preferable to to wading. Without sounding overcautious believe such stories and be careful. They are saltwater crocodiles and even for an "Aussie" some are large enough to make you respect the waters edge. You can always dive or head to San Pedro for shopping if you are not the adventurous type. For many it is sheer luxury to simply enjoy the pools and the Belikin Beers at both resorts before dinner.

Since this article was penned Ambergris Caye was hit by Hurricane Keith as reported in this magazine. El Pescador withstood the storm with little damage. Actually Ali and Logan Gentry added some incredible Villas to the El Pescador property. The first one was under construction during our visit. (Logan Gentry died in a tragic accident running into a anchored barge whilst running the boat at night) Journeys End suffered worse and several changes have been made during rebuilding. It has now re opened and is ready to show you the beauty of Belize. Although the weather gods were unkind during our stay and limited our opportunities it did give insight into the fishery. The learning curve is steep for newcomers but with guides the caliber of those we encountered at both lodges, newbies should take the challenge without trepidation. On a subsequent visit to Belize I did get that tarpon and, yes, I did get my permit. That of course is another story. My recovery from the information overload situation has been slow. Sometimes I find myself sitting, smiling and suffering another Belizean flashback..........You better Belize it!

Getting There:...Getting to Belize is easier than you might imagine. American Airlines, Continental and Taca fly directly to Belize City from Miami, Houston, New Orleans and Los Angeles. From Belize city you will take one of 2 local airlines, Tropica or Maya Air. These intra-country flights might prove to be a highlight of your travels, they are often very small, 6 to 8 seats, and act as the "milk run" between cayes and coastal towns. Unplanned stops are common, relax, enjoy the incredible views afforded by flying at low altitudes. Once on Ambergris Caye your hosts will meet you at the San Pedro airport and bring you to the water taxi for your trip to the north end of the island. The water taxis are certainly the fastest way, and sometimes the only way. to get from one end of the island to the other. Ambergris caye is split down the middle by a channel. San Pedro lies on the south end, our lodges on the north side. transportation on the north end has been limited to golf carts and bicycles. The channel does have a "ferry" that can accommodate 1 golf cart and a few passengers or 15 passengers or various bikes and passengers- well you get the picture. It is a small barge that must be pulled across the water by a rope system. In and around San Pedro there are quite a few cars, truck and taxis.

Accommodations:Journeys End Resort is a magical spot, resplendent with beautiful beach, waving palms, and attentive staff who encourage you to do two things, relax and go barefoot! The grounds are swept immaculately each day to make that second request a daily pleasure. Both cabins and rooms at the resort are clean and comfortable, and the large pool and jacuzzi are a wonderful treat after a long day on the flats. For those die hard fisherman who are not sated by 7 hours with the guides, the resort's lagoon provides opportunities for bonefish, snook and small tarpon steps from your room. Orvis recently endorsed Journey's End, presenting it as a one stop fishing and expedition adventure resort. For non-fishing partners or just as a change of pace, Journey's End has many tours to the mainland, snorkeling, scuba and sailing. For information:(800) 460-5665www.journeysendresort.com

El Pescador Lodge, located just a few bends of the beach south of Journey's End, is a fisherman's home away from home. Down to the rod racks in your room, our stay here was focused on piscatorial pursuits. Not to imply that all the Belizian eco-touring, diving, and exploring is not still at your fingertips through the lodge, your host, Ali Gentry, can put together any sort of day you could want- the point is, most people who visit El Pescador are exactly the translation of it's name - the fisherman. Full days of fishing are followed by a refreshing dip in the fresh pool or a stroll along the beach. The meals are authentic and interesting, the rooms large and air conditioned. Our guides were some of the best known in all of Belize and they were eager to seek out whatever species we desired.
For information:Direct 011-501-26-2398 www.elpescador.com

General Comments:• Insect repellent is recommended for those sensitive to Noseeum and mosquitos. Generally dawn and dusk is the peak period but you will run into them if you intend to look around the lagoons out the back. • Passport a must• Be prepared to cast in the wind• Check these websites for great in-depth research on Belize: http://belizenet.com http://ambergriscaye.com